Introduction - why a selvedge matters when weaving a scarf on a rigid heddle loom

The selvedge is the finished sides of a woven fabric running along each of the sides. When weaving a scarf on a rigid heddle loom, achieving a neat and even selvedge is important. Creating a neat selvedge is often something new weavers find difficult. A wobbly, uneven or pulled in selvedge can spoil what would otherwise have been a beautiful handwoven scarf. This blog discusses the causes of an uneven selvedge and provides some suggestions and hints on how to perfect your technique.

When does a neat selvedge not matter

Having said that a neat selvedge is important, there are times when having a neat edge doesn't matter. This is when the fabric that is being woven is being used as a sewing fabric which will be cut up into pieces. Where this is the case the selvedge will always be sewn or cut off and will be invisible in the final garment.

Choosing the right yarn

Weaving with different yarns in the weft can result in an uneven selvedge. This is particularly the case if the make up of the different weft yarns varies with weft stripes of more than a few cm. Where this is the case differential shrinkage across the fabric can occur on finishing. This can create weft stripes of different widths leading to wobbly edges. This can occur when using hand spun yarn and our blog on weaving with hand spun yarn gives some suggestions on weaving with this type of yarn which will help to avoid this issue. Click to read the blog here.

Getting a good warp tension

Setting up a rigid heddle weaving loom with a good warp tension is perhaps the most important part of the weaving process. A loom without a good warp tension creates all manner of issues which go beyond the weaving of a neat selvedge. We have written a blog on common warping issues which can be read by clicking here. One of the most common mistakes new weavers make is to not use cardboard sticks or paper across the whole width of the back beam when winding on the warp. If narrower paper or sticks are used the outermost warp threads do not travel as far around the back beam leading to loose threads. Loose warp threads will certainly stop a weaver from creating a neat selvedge.

Pulling the weft yarn flush with the selvedge

This is one of the key things to focus on at the selvedge when weaving. The weft thread should not be pulled too tightly at the selvedge as this will result in a draw in at the edge. On the other hand if the weft isn't pulled in at the selvedge the weft will form little loops of thread. Both of these scenarios are common issues with new weavers. When teaching people to weave we recommend taking the shuttle across in the shed and then pulling the weft thread with your hand until you see the outermost warp threads move inward. At that point the weft thread should be let go, releasing this tension on the outermost warp thread before the beating process.

Beating evenly across the warp

Holding the heddle with two hands and pulling the heddle down the weave horizontally or parallel to the front of the loom is the ideal scenario. Using one hand to beat makes it very difficult to move the heddle down at the correct angle which can result in one side of the selvedge being beaten down too vigourously with the other side not being beaten enough.

Adjusting the weft angle for correct draw in

Laying the weft thread in the shed at an angle is a really important step. The wider the weave the more the angle needs to be. This is required because the weft thread doesn't just go across the weave. The weft thread goes up and over each warp thread so in effect is travelling further than just across the width of the weave. If the weft is laid down straight across, the thread is simply not long enough and the result of this is the drawing in of the weave at the edges and a cramped selvedge.

Changing the weft

There are various ways to change the weft when weaving and these are discussed in our weft changing blog which you can read by clicking here. When weaving a scarf we tend to weave in the weft being finished with the start of the new thread being laid down at the selvedge edge. Some weavers prefer to weave this new weft in too but we choose not to because it creates additional bulk at the selvedge edge. In the image below you can see that the last orange weft thread has been woven in across 10 warp threads with the pale pink weft thread woven just to the selvedge edge.

Practise makes perfect

Like any yarn craft there are skills to be learnt when weaving. With practise and a focus on the edges it is possible to quickly achieve a neat selvedge. It is not uncommon for weavers to have a better selvedge side, perhaps this being due to the handedness of the weaver?

The final handwoven scarf

Finishing a weave is a really important step. The fabric is washed and fulled, dried and then ironed. Any small imperfections at the selvedge can be removed with a hot iron. The selvedge edges on the scarf shown are pretty good we think.

Rigid heddle looms with the scarf weaving kit to weave the scarf above are available in our TabbyandTweed website shop for UK delivery and our TabbyandTweed Etsy shop for delivery elsewhere. We sell a variety of scarf rigid heddle loom weaving kits which include the pattern and yarn for both 8epi and 10epi reeds.

In the fast paced world we now live in it is our opinion that it is something quite special to take time out of life to be creative. Weaving fabric and scarves as unique items of clothing for yourself or gifts is hugely rewarding and helpful when trying to both unwind or keep warm!

Interested in learning to weave? Then our workshop page has all the details found by clicking the link here.

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